In 1931, Elsa Schiaparelli undertook her first collaboration with an artist on the creation of a garment. She entrusted the artist and decorator Jean Dunand with the task of painting a trompe-l'œil pleat, simulating the folds of ancient Greek garments. These motifs, hand-painted in shades of gray on black, simulated pleats on a flat fabric. Dunand's painting technique involved diluted sepia and colored lacquers applied with a stencil.

Elsa Schiaparelli here renews the principle of trompe-l'œil which she was the first to use in fashion as early as 1927. She had then invented her famous Haute Couture sweaters adorned with trompe-l'œil patterns.

The photographer Man Ray is the author of the portrait of Elsa Schiaparelli bearing the fruit of this artistic collaboration.